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Divine beauty lives on at Tirta Empul

The Jakarta Post

By Alpha Savitri


TAMPAKSIRING, Bali (JP): Set amid beautiful leafy scenery, the Tirta Empul is a breath-taking sight for the first-time visitor. It boasts a cool climate and terraced rice fields, which are a welcome respite for visitors arriving from hot, dusty lowlands.

Tirta Empul's main attraction, however, is its compound of moss-covered ancient temples, bathing pools and fountains, which have drawn devotees for centuries.

It is located at the eastern point of Tampaksiring Palace, the vacation home of the late Sukarno, the country's first president. The glorious palace compound, with hundreds of tall pine trees, is visible from the site. It is said that Bung (older brother) Karno liked to stand at the top of the palace, watching the bathing pools, considered sacred by local Hindus. He built his own pool, which is now a public swimming pool.

There are four shower compounds at the southern part and one in the west. Cold, clear water continually flows into the stone reservoirs filled with fish.

The most peculiar feature of these fountains are the pallawa letters inscribed on the inner surfaces. In the past, Indian priests engraved the letters and sanctified them. In the eyes of the Hindus, these features differentiate the fountains from other wells.

Tirta Empul itself means ""water with steam rising from it"". According to mythology, the water was created by a god called Bhatara Indra to annul the influence of Mayadenawa, an arrogant king who declared himself to be a god. It is said that, during a battle against the Mayadenawa troops, many of Bhatara Indra's troops were killed because of poison created by Mayadenawa. Bhatara Indra then created a holy water to wash the deceased troops. The dead came back to life after being bathed in the water called Tirta Empul.

According to Dewa Beratha, an archaeology graduate from Tampaksiring, the temples have existed for a long time and its water is considered holy. According to an ancient inscription found at Manukaya village, Tampaksiring, in 884 on the Hindu Balinese calendar, or 962 A.D., the compound was renovated by King Sri Candrabaya Singha Warmadewa. At that time, imported fountains from India with the letter inscriptions on them were installed to sanctify the water.

The northern temple was constructed later, over a period of three years during the reign of King Masula Masuli, also known as Maheswara Maheswari, and was completed in 1250 A.D.. The physical form of the temple and fountains has remained unchanged over the centuries.

Hindu Balinese visit Tirta Empul not only on religious holidays but also on days considered special on the Hindu Balinese calendar. Those coming to carry out rituals are usually asking forgiveness for malicious things they have said, or those seeking freedom from nightmares. The fountain water is also believed to be capable of ridding curses or black magic and is used for special religious ceremonies for babies aged three months old.

Do not be surprised if a visit to the site includes the sight of a woman wearing only long fabric who plunges into the pool under the fountains. Or perhaps there will be someone going to the well compound after completing his prayers in the Temple of Tirta Empul. He will likely be carrying bottles which will be filled with water from the fountains. This water will be brought home for ceremonial means.

If a visit coincides with a Hindu Balinese holy day, there will be the strong smell of incense and flowers. But words are not enough to describe this place's mystery and beauty -- only a visit to Tirta Empul will allow you to understand its full magic.

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Kiswara's mystical gift


The Jakarta Post , Thu, 10/25/2001

Alpha Savitri, Contributor, Denpasar, Bali

Every painter has his own special mark reflecting their source of inspiration.

For Balinese artist Kiswara, his works reflect his spiritual belief, a metaphysical touch that can be found not only in the themes of his works, but also in his extraordinary brushwork.

His paintings, on display alongside the works of other six painters at an ongoing exhibition at the Nikko Bali Resort and Spa here, are totally filled with magical nuances.

Although Kiwara received no formal training, he seems proficient in mastering his brush, mixing colors to create supernatural or mystical objects out of his imagination.

The rare talent of the painter was discovered several months ago by I Made Yudia Putra, an organizer of painting exhibitions.

At first it was difficult to persuade him to take part in an exhibition as Kiswara considers his paintings the result of a supernatural force and he had to ask god Shiva's permission before participating in such an exhibition. But finally, Kiswara said, god Shiva granted him his request.
For Kiswara, his paintings are the manifestation of his dreams in reality.

The artist claims he is often visited by spirits -- followers of god Shiva or even god Shiva himself -- who takes him to fly and fight enemies before returning victorious. Sometimes he is taken by him to watch tabuh rah, cockfighting at a temple.

When he wakes up, he puts his dream on to the canvas, following supernatural voices that urge him to immediately paint what he has seen in the dreams. The result can be seen in his works, such as Topeng Sidakarya I, Topeng Sidakarya II (The Mask of Sidakarya I and II), Tabuh Rah, 3 Bidadari (Three Angels), which are all imbued with symbols of god Shiva, whom he worships.
Kiswara has been fond of painting since childhood and was taught by the late painter, Antonio Blanco.

However, until around a year ago, he had never been seriously involved in painting.
He explained that it was the hand of god that assisted him in selecting and mixing the colors, dark gradations and somber colors and the rendering of magical objects.

""When I pour out what I see in my dreams, I feel the presence of god watching and helping me in my work,"" said the father of two who prepares offerings before starting to paint.

In his daily life, Kiswara is widely known as a rangda (symbol of evil power) dancer in the temple in his hometown in Jembrana regency in Bali.

In Bali, not everyone can become a rangda dancer at the temple. The selection is done through a spiritual process.

When Kiswara, born on Jan. 21, 1965, was still in senior high school, the temple priest, possessed by a supernatural power, appointed him as the dancer. Hence he was officially appointed as the follower of god Shiva, something he had never imagined before.

His mastery of dance is visible in Topeng Sidakarya, which is filled with symbols of god Shiva. To Balinese Hindus, Topeng Sidakarya is a performance filled with religious significance and is always performed to complete five important ceremonies (Pancayadnya) in Bali: Dewayadnya, Pitrayadnya, Manusayadnya, Resiyadnya and Butayadnya.

The unique thing is, whenever he is asked to perform the dance, unknowing a desire to paint emerges from within him. Therefore, Kiswara always brings along his brushes and paint. And during the show, he paints as well, sometimes not aware of what he is doing as he is in trance. When he becomes conscious, the painting, although still unfinished, stands in front of him. Later, Kiswara only has to apply some finishing touches to it.

This phenomenon might be hard to comprehend. But in Bali, there's a belief that some artists are endowed with taksu, a gift from God. Famous artists are known to make use of taksu so that their work is admired.

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Niki finds her home among Bali's waves

The Jakarta Post , Thu, 09/06/2001

By Alpha Savitri
KUTA, Bali (JP): Being a surfer never crossed her mind. She was the graduate of the Japanese department at a prestigious university in Jakarta and a member of the national basketball team. But a fling with Bali's waves changed everything.

Her most memorable holiday in Bali entirely changed her destiny. Now, the tall and slim woman, Theresia Herlani, who is better known as Niki, is one of the most talented female surfers in the country.

Her love affair with the waves started two years ago when an old friend, an American surfer, introduced her to his surf board and the beauty of Nusa Dua's waves during the holiday. She was curious and eager to try the board herself.

Soon, she was running into the water and started paddling her surfboard toward the waves, startling her American friend with her perfect movements, which seemed like a professional's. The way she handled the waves was amazing, especially for a beginner like her.

Now, Niki has grown into a skilled and prominent surfer. Her surfing technique has matured, making her capable of surfing both coastal beaches and among large waves, everywhere in Bali.
Born in Kudus, Central Java in September 1974, Niki now enjoys wide popularity. Her activities are widely covered by both local and foreign sports media. Several surfing magazines have even profiled her.

Niki is a rare jewel in the local surfing world. Surfing has not yet attracted many local people since it is still considered an exclusive and expensive activity.

At present, there are not many male surfers in the country or in Bali, let alone female surfers like Niki. So far, there were only five active female surfers in the country, she said.

This is sad, since Indonesia is renowned as a maritime country where clear water beaches with good waves are everywhere in the archipelago. Bali has grown into one of the world's surfing heavens.

Lack of information and, especially, expensive equipment might be the reasons why surfing is not yet popular among Indonesians. A surfboard alone can cost upwards of US$498, too expensive for most.

For Niki, money has meant nothing compared with her obsession to become a reputable surfer and she has been willing to work hard to achieve her dream.

In love
One thing for sure, Niki has fallen in love with Bali and its waves. She no longer intends to return to Jakarta and find herself a job to support her sports activity.

For a woman who has mastered Japanese and English, it was not difficult to find a job in this tourist island.
""I needed to find a job that enabled me to spend part of my time surfing on beaches,"" said Niki.
She was quite surprised that there was a company in Denpasar that was willing to hire her despite her strict requirements, but in the end she found a suitable company belonging to a foreign female surfer.
""I can work whenever I want to as long as I finish my work on time,"" said Niki, who helps look after of the company when her boss goes abroad.

Life for Niki seems as easy as a Sunday morning. In reality, she is a hard worker with very high self-discipline.

""I always wake up at dawn before anyone else here,"" Niki said.

Then, she will take her bike or walk to nearby Kuta beach, just to check the weather and the height of the waves.

""By monitoring the waves on Kuta beach, I can predict the height of waves at other beaches on the island,"" explained Niki, who likes surfing on Geger beach in Nusa Dua.

Whenever she finds Kuta's waves perfect, Niki rushes home and takes up her surfboard. Suddenly, she has forgotten her laundry and her breakfast.

""I have been surfing for almost two years now but have still not come across any Indonesian women who are seriously interested in this sport,"" she complained.

Recently, she said, there were a number of women enrolling at some surfing schools here. But soon, they disappeared.

Surfing, according to Niki, has taught her how to improve her discipline and courage.

""My life has become so organized. A good surfer will certainly stay away from drugs, alcohol and other negative things,"" she said, sharing her experience. ""Then, she or he must wake up early in the morning to catch the good waves. Lazy people won't become successful surfers.""
Surfing, as she admitted, promises no material gain.

""However, surfing can become a gateway to success and business opportunity. I have a lot of friends from every part of the world,"" said Niki, who got her present job thanks to her surfing connection.

The woman insisted that a person must be persistent and serious in pursuing a goal. Citing an example, she said that she never expected to be included in the national team when she was a basketball athlete, but her coaches noticed her perseverance. She was a member of the Indonesian basketball team from 1991 to 1997.

In the surfing world, Niki is known as a hard worker and an outstanding professional female surfer.

""I get lots of job offers from my friends,"" said Niki, who also acts as a guide for Japanese surfers wanting to explore various beaches in Bali.

Her reputation has prompted four surfing companies to provide her with several items every month. At present she is involved in a documentary film project exploring the world of surfing in Bali from the 1970s to the present.

Surfing is not her only talent. The woman is also an accomplished painter. Most of her paintings portray the surfing world, as well as sea views and the Balinese landscape. Her stunning painting style and use of bold colors have attracted many art lovers.

""Some of my friends who own surf shops have offered to exhibit my paintings in their establishments,"" she said.

""Sometimes, I give one of my paintings to a friend in return for a surfboard that is too expensive for me,"" Niki laughed.

Her obsession is to take part in a world female surfing contest and to surf at all the world's surfing beaches.

""But most of all, I want to surf until I grow old.

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